Category Archives: Great Lakes

John Henry on Steamships

John Henry, author of Great White Fleet: Celebrating Canada Steamships Lines Passenger Ships reflects on “How [He] Learned to Love Canada Steamship Lines and Its Passenger Steamers”:

Great White Fleet: Celebrating Canada Steamships Lines Passenger ShipsGrowing up on the shores of Lake Erie in the 1940s and 1950s, I developed a passion for lake and river passenger steamers that has never left me. In the early postwar years, you could still take overnight trips every summer aboard the massive paddlewheel vessels that plied between my hometown, Buffalo, N.Y., and Detroit. And take them I did — no fewer than four times in five years.

As my interest in such travel deepened, I inevitably learned about the biggest inland-water steamboat operator of all: Canada Steamship Lines of Montreal, whose elegant passenger ships could be found in ports all the way from Duluth, Minnesota, in the continental heartland at the western end of Lake Superior, to the lower St. Lawrence River, east of Quebec City. Unfortunately, I managed to take only one of these steamers, the beautiful Cayuga on the Toronto-Niagara run — and that was after C.S.L. had sold her. But I always wanted to know more about what I had missed before the company ended all passenger service in 1965.

Hoopes donation, Musée de Charlevoix

Hoopes donation, Musée de Charlevoix

The opportunity to do so came after reading that Canada Steamship Lines had donated thousands of historic photographs and hundreds of boxes of its archival material to the Marine Museum of the Great Lakes at Kingston, Ont. So, during a two-year period, I repeatedly visited the museum to do research for what I envisioned would be a copiously illustrated hardcover book on C.S.L.’s dozens of passenger ships (known collectively as the “Great White Fleet” because of their spotless white paint jobs). And I gathered vintage pictures from other sources, including the esteemed Toronto marine historian Jay Bascom, whose C.S.L. collection has to be among the finest in Canada.

The result is Great White Fleet: Celebrating Canada Steamship Lines Passenger Ships, timed to coincide with the centennial of the company’s creation in June 1913. Flourishing still, C.S.L. operates bulk carriers on the Great Lakes and St. Lawrence; other units of its parent, CSL Group Inc., operate similar ships around the globe. But I saw the centennial also as a fitting occasion to revisit the wonderful fleet of passenger ships that the company fielded for more than half its existence and that raised its profile in a very positive way.

It’s time to celebrate that delightful part of Canada’s transportation heritage as well!

1-13Niag-To-Sea

Harbourfront Wasteland Wonderland

At first glance, our neighbourhood appears to be a post-apocalyptic wasteland. Wind funnels down a canyon of condos and whips across dusty rubble while giant machines demolish sidewalks, traffic lanes, and the peace. Look deeper though, and beneath the desolate moonscape you’ll find a vibrant community, brimming with delicious food, fun activities, and great deals! When you visit our store, you’ll find the same selection of books, charts, and calendars as on our site (in pleasantly browsable, physical form) as well as special store-only bargains, magazines, DVD rentals, and a puppy! You’ll also be able to swap yarns and expertise with our staff of Arctic tug crew, tall ship sailors, and seasoned yachties.

Pylons!

Puppy! (not for sale)

Skating!

Rubble!

When you’re done with us, load up on rugged gear for you, your boat, and your family at Genco Marine next to the Beer Store, or Tilley Endurables in the nearby Queen’s Quay Terminal. QQT’s a fun boutique mall, home to a games store, fudge shop, food court, and more. Apart from the food court, there are plenty of tasty and unique restaurants nearby like Grill 4 U Shawarma, Indian Roti House, and Shoeless Joe’s. Special mention must go to Spice Thai Cafe, whose hot and sour soup is the best in the city, and the unfortunately-named Lick It Gelato whose coffee is molto béne.

Tall Ship Caledonia

The Tall Ship Caledonia — Right across the street from us!

Activities and entertainment also abound, including one of the best skating rinks in the city, tall ship watching (now with extra “tall” thanks to the arrival of Caledonia), the Power Plant Gallery, the Music Garden, and of course, beholding the engineering marvel of major enhancements to municipal infrastructure.

 

* Parking can be challenging, especially if there’s an event at the Sky Dome/Rogers Centre, but there’s metered parking and several lots in the neighbourhood (including beneath the Radisson). The nearby police station is the Marine Unit, and so generally more interested in fining you for missing paper navigation charts than giving parking tickets. There’s a 509 bus running from the similarly devastated Union Station.

The North Channel

Pixie Haughwout and Ralph Folsom write:

Lake Huron's North Channel

So how did two San Diego trailer-sailors fall in love with Lake Huron’s North Channel? The answer is Marjorie Cahn Brazer’s classic cruising guide, Well-Favored Passage, first published in 1975 in Toronto….and yes it was spelled “Well-Favoured Passage.” Friends loaned us a copy of her third 1987 edition (now a collectible) and she took us to enchanting, wilderness anchorages and charming Canadian ports-of-call. Marjorie, who left us in 1992, was also an exquisite storyteller….”The Great Sawmill Robbery,” “The Curse of the Bearwalk” and more are still found in our updated, greatly expanded 2012 edition of Well-Favored Passage: The Magic of Lake Huron’s North Channel. It comes replete with GPS coordinates. Heirs to her remarkable legacy, our new edition is intended to share the rapture of cruising the North Channel. Bon Voyage!  – Captain Pixie Haughwout and First Mate Ralph Folsom

The Scuttlebutt about Charts [UPDATED!]

UPDATE: While not universally or rigidly enforced, regulations about what ships in Canadian waters carry are quite explicit and not at all ambiguous.  The Charts and Nautical Publications Regulations of 1995 clearly require all vessels to carry up to date, corrected paper charts for all the waters they travel as well as Notices to Mariners, Lists of Lights, Radio Aids to Marine Navigation, Sailing Directions, and, where applicable, tide tables.

 

We’ve heard scuttlebutt about some Lake Ontario boaters who have been charged for not carrying the proper charts. While the Canadian Shipping Act is very clear about what is required on large ships, it is less prescriptive for small boat operators. Although the law requires all marine vessels to carry charts, small boat operators are exempt as long as they have “local knowledge” of the area. It is the definition of “local knowledge” that is variable and can get the average mariner into trouble.

Whether it illegal or not to operate your boat without charts, mariners should always have at least a small-scale chart of the area they regularly boat in. And if in unfamiliar waters, charts are a helpful aid for keeping your boat out of trouble.  In addition to maritime law and basic self-preservation, some boat insurance policies may also require current charts of the area you’re operating in.

We know that buying a ton of individual charts can be expensive. There is often a more economical solution. For example if you are boating on the Great Lakes, there is a Richardsons Chartbook for each lake that includes both the small-scale, large area charts and the more detailed charts. New editions are issued every few years. However, they may not be considered “proper charts” by the very strictest/most litigious authorities.

We list thousands of charts on our site, and link PDF copies of the Canadian Hydrographic Service chart catalogues down the right-hand side of our chart pages.  We keep our inventory fresh so are charts are always up-to-date, and we’ve had years of experience in chart selection and can help you choose the right compliment of charts for your needs, anywhere in the world. Have a look at the Chart section of our website, or call or email us for a tailored list.

The S.S. Keewatin Sails Georgian Bay Once Again

The S.S. Keewatin Anchored in Georgian Bay

Ross writes: We joined a fleet of small boats on a beautiful Georgian Bay day watching the grand old lady, “The Kee” the last of the Edwardian Era steamers  being towed by tug to Port McNicol her resting place where she will be center piece of a major shoreline development by Skyline Holdings. The company plans to use the ship to stage special events plus housing a maritime museum.

A thrilling sight, with her majestic lines, the ship is 106-metres and weighs 3,800 tons; an unusual sight on a day-to-day basis on this part of The Bay. S.S. Keewatin was built in Scotland and launched in 1907, five years before the Titantic. She was retired in 1966 after 60 years of plying the waters of the Great Lakes ending her days in Michigan.

The jewel in the CPR’s, Great Lakes Steamship Service, a rail- to- water, deluxe travel system servicing passengers and freight to Port Arthur from Port McNicol.

You could almost imagine her looming out of the past moving into the present day continuing her journey to her home port full of freight, passengers lining the rails, waving to her admirers.

I would suggest the book, Ninety-Five Years Young: The Story of the S.S. Keewatin 1907 to Present for a fascinating look at this ship.

 




Locking Down in the St. Lawrence

After moving on from selling books at the Nautical Mind I found myself working as a wheelsman onboard a lake freighter. As you can imagine from the job title, it involves a lot of wheeling, or steering. When underway I spend my watches on the bridge, either actively steering the vessel (in rivers, canals, harbours, etc); or if we are on autopilot then I am helping to maintain a good lookout. You might also find me doing some cleaning when the bridge needs a mopping, or if its time to clear the bugs from the windows; whatever needs doing I get to do it. When  in port the job changes quite a bit, the wheelsman is responsible for a whole range of tasks while on watch, this includes: gangway watch, keeping an eye on the mooring wires, sounding ballast tanks, assisting the deckhands and really, anything else the mate might want you to do. On top of this the wheelsmen are also responsible for handling the wires back aft whenever we are tying up, letting go or in a lock. No two days are ever the same, and except for those long lake watches on the in the middle of the night, it rarely gets dull.

The ship I am working on is called Ojibway, she is owned by Lower Lakes Towing out of Port Dover, Ontario. We ship a lot of grain, picking it up all over the Great Lakes, and we take it out to Quebec City, or sometimes Montreal. On a recent trip to Quebec City I took these pictures while downbound in the St. Lawrence. We are in St. Catherine Lock, just outside of Montreal. Lower Lakes and their affiliate, Grand River Navigation, are featured in the book The Grey Ghosts which outlines the history of the relatively new company, and provides some great information about their ships.

 

Here we are “sliding” the wall into the lock. The bow is brought up gently to the wall, and the ship then slides along into the lock.

Here is a view of Montreal from inside the lock. The ship is in position and ready to go down.

Here we are at the other end, the lock is empty, the doors are open, and we are heading out.

One last look back, as we exit the lock. The large ‘X’ to the right of the picture is a lock door, the crane above it is used to lay a retaining cable across the lock when a ship is entering, the cable is meant to prevent damage to the lock doors.

PORTS Lake Ontario Cruising Guide 2012 and More

PORTS Lake Ontario & The Thousand Islands Cruising Guide

 

Hot off the presses is the 2012 edition of the PORTS Cruising Guide to Lake Ontario. The PORTS Cruising Guides have long been our favourite guides, not just of the Great Lakes, but of all the Cruising Guides out there.  Their layout, aerial photos, writing style, and useful yachty tips make them both indispensable and fun.  Not to put too fine a point on it, but if you plan on sailing or power-boating around on Lake Ontario, you absolutely need this book.  See also their guides to Lake Huron and Georgian Bay, The Trent-Severn, and The Rideau & Ottawa River.

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Atlantic ICW 2012 Cruising Guide Yachtsman's Guide to the Bahamas 2012 The Gentleman's Gudie to Passages South

Other great cruising guides that have just been updated with new editions for 2012 include The Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway Cruising GuideThe 2012 Yachtsman’s Guide to the BahamasThe Gentleman’s Guide to Passages South, and The Cruising Guide to the Leeward Islands.  For even more guides, check out our Cruising Guide section online, stop by the store, or give us a call.

Phantasia in Prince Edward County

Jayne Finn and Mike Evans, creators of the Gone Sailing DVD series, write:

Phantasia, our Niagara 35, is back in Lake Ontario after 6 seasons of sailing through Quebec, The Maritime Provinces, New England and New York. After so many seasons away the “to do” list of repair, replace and refinish tasks is substantial: from a complete rebuild of our 3 blade Max Pro, installing a new Racor 500 filter system, new holding tank, to wiring in a mast mounted foghorn/PA speaker.

A quiet Ontario anchorage

A Quiet Ontario Anchorage

Head rebuild

Head Rebuild

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Skip Gillham & the Old Ships of the St Lawrence Seaway

Marine historian and author Skip Gillham writes:

I grew up in Toronto and often made a weekend trip to the waterfront with my father who kept a record of the ships we saw in port.

After graduating from Victoria College, University of Toronto, in 1963, I got the opportunity to spend part of the summer as an “oiler” on the Great Lakes tanker LUBROLAKE. The St. Lawrence Seaway was now in its fifth season and the nature of Great Lakes shipping was changing. The old ships he remembered were disappearing and, as a history major, I began to research their fates.

Pre-Seaway Salties by Skip Gillham

Pre-Seaway Salties

The Ships of Collingwood

The Ships of Collingwood

Liberties on the Lakes

Liberties on the Lakes

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Superships of the Great Lakes, Dingy Cruising, and Garbage Management Plans

From the books mentioned in the title of this post, to Warships of the Bay of Quinte, to the International Maritime Organisation’s 2011 STCW, the last month saw an amazingly diverse range of books arrive at The Nautical Mind. Well, they’re all somehow related to ships and the sea, but other than that it’s an amazingly diverse range.

Warships of the Bay of Quinte

Warships of the Bay of Quinte

Standards of Training, Certification, & Watchkeeping for Seafarers 2011

Dinghy Cruising

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